Party Time In Cusco!

Sitting in the passenger seat of a minivan on the way back from the airport, fresh clients in the back seat, eager to see Cusco and Machu Picchu, the usual schpeel was spewing from my mouth . It’s best to avoid alcohol, cigarettes, fatty foods, your first night. The weather now is typical, usually clear and sunny during the day but cold at night. Layering is a good idea. 400,000 inhabitants. Inca foundations. Yes, Cusco is a safe city. I take taxi’s from the street every day. More blahblah about altitude sickness and emperor Pachacuteq.

Driving along Avenido del Sol, a main drag into Cusco center, I noticed the street was suddenly lined with the red and white striped flag of Peru. It was as if overnight the rainbow flags of Cusco that had gone up a month ago in every nook and cranny of the city had been replaced.

Jose Luis, my main driver, explained what happened. While June was the month to celebrate the region of Cusco, July is the month to recognize national history and pride, with the celebration of Fiestas Patrias, Independence Day on the 28th. So far however, aside from riding out the bustling tourism, July has been the dead quiet after the storm of last month’s portrayal of tireless energy and celebration.

Colorful parades raided the main streets on an almost daily basis, and the fever was difficult to ignore, not that I was trying to. Peruvians dressed in traditional costume, and marched and danced to the beat of brass bands. The month kicked off with the Fiesta del Corpus Christi, another chance for Peru to celebrate its faith with giant parades and parties.

I spent the day with the family of a friend, chewing sugar cane and playing with the kiddies while her mom prepared a feast called Chiriuchu. Eventually dinner was served and I looked down at my portion which amounted to an enormous plate stacked with chicken, guinea pig, seaweed, tortilla, queso, chorizos, dried corn, lamb jerkey, and caviar. It was one of the more memorable meals of my life.

While at work we tried to go on with business as usual, there were regular strikes, road blocks, delayed flights and general mayhem. On my way to work I usually cut through the Plaza de Armas. In June this meant detouring around huge crowds and parades, or stopping to watch small children practice a traditional dance to piping flute music, because it was too cute to ignore.

The madness came to an exciting culmination almost a full month after it began on June 24, the anniversary of Cusco, Inti Raymi, one of the largest celebrations in the country. Unfortunately, I missed the morning festivities because of a few transfers but I did make it up the mountain to Saqsaywaman, to see the ruins and the surrounding hills crawling with people, celebrating their heritage, and the beginning of longer days.

All the usually June energy was in addition to the World Cup craze that dominated the lunchtime scene, leaving the streets virtually empty and the bars packed from 1-3 most afternoons. The game was on everywhere; from menu del dia’s to barber shops to offices. Last Sunday, it came to an exciting finish with Iniesta’s winning goal and though we are thousands of miles from the winning country, Spanish flags quickly popped out in the square wrapped around ecstatic tourists, who went on to paint the town red and yellow, while I switched to coffee.

Personally, I’d began the month feeling pretty weak and defeated, longing for home. By now, however, I feel strong (so strong I can move gigantic stones like the Incas), normal even. A visit from Annie came at just the right time, and we had some adventures in the Sacred Valley, cramming in collectivo’s between Senora’s and huge bundles of produce to explore Pisac Ruins, Ollantaytambo, Moray and the salt flats of Maras.

I’ve got some exciting trips planned for the coming weeks when Erin’s here so I’ll keep posting. By the way, happy birthday to my brother who’s currently lounging in the Philippines!

Beso.

(Photos from top to bottom: Annie's shot of the Plaza during one of the many parades, On top of the mountain near San Cristobal during Inti Raymi, Some of the thousands of potatoes on display at the Huancaro fair, Me moving giant stones in Ollantataytambo Ruins)

P.S. If you made it this far, perhaps you are also interested in my photos of Animalitos de Peru on Facebook.